Firriato's Etna Rosso - An Esoteric Sicilian Red

The beaten path is boring. For every new California Chardonnay or Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon there is an audible yawn amidst true wine lovers. Though we are often deplored as geeks or wine bloggers, like film critics who have seen the same romantic comedy formula tried out again and again, we tire of the same wines.

Certain wines are like moods and there's a time and place for beginners to get their share of the famous, 'noble' varieties. 

But as palates become more intelligent, it's time to indulge in the 'market of the multitudes' as Chris Anderson in his bestselling book, The Long Tail explains. Though we all begin somewhere the same, we eventually diversify and become acquainted with unique offerings that expand our awareness and knowledge. 

This is why I love Southern Italian wines - they are somewhere off the radar but remain in range and deliver not only the intensity of stand-by varietals and blends but also tweak one's curiosity. 

SICILIAN WINE

The famous German poet, playwright, naturalist, novelist and statesman Johann Wolfgang von Goethe once wrote in his Italian Journey that without “seeing Sicily one cannot get a clear idea of what Italy is.” 

Goethe had escaped to Italy to discover himself, to learn about art, to fall in love and surround himself with an Ancient Culture. He wanted to get beyond the stuffy confines of Weimar and the customs of his Germanic homeland.

For many wine consumers looking for a way to break out from the heaps of everyday Cabs and Aussie Shiraz, Nero d'Avola (also known as Calabrese) has become the first  and most famous go-to Sicilian wine, a fun popular choice for those leaving the beaten path.

In terms of white varieties, you can look to traditional Catarratto and Inzolia as well as Grecanico  to please your curious summer palate. 

But for those questing out something special, I recommend wines from....

ETNA ROSSO

In the nineteenth century, the Etna wine district - Northeast, just south of Messina - became popular overnight. As phylloxera made its way through the vineyards of France, the Etna region with the help of the modern railway made it possible for grapes to be carried to wineries.

In the twentieth century, output fell, the volcano erupted (several times) and vineyards slowly became abandoned.

But as with many things overlooked, there is a return to greatness. 

Today, with modern research and the passion and enthusiasm of today's wine makers, the region is enjoying a small, but quiet renaissance. 

The soil is obviously volcanic, well-drained and temperatures shift back and forth between hot days and cool nights. Vines are old, sometimes 80 plus years. 

FIRRIATO'S ETNA ROSSO

Salvatore Di Gaetano and his wife Vinzia Novara are the dynamic couple behind Firriato's's success. Begun in the 1980's, the winery has since acquired several estates throughout Sicily, notably vineyard land south of Trapani  (in the west) and on the north eastern slope of Mount Etna in the region of Castiglione di Sicilia. 

In the latter area, one can find the Cavanera vineyards, 11 hectares planted to Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappucio and Carricante. The soils here are rich with minerals making their 2008 Etna Rosso, a blend of 80% Nerello Mescalese and 20% Nerello Cappucio a charismatic choice for savvy wine consumers. 

I was immediately struck by the licorice aroma of this wine. But I must emphasize, not a typical black licorice but more the Dutch, salted drop kind, the one I had in childhood. There's also a welcome hint of chocolate but also charred stone and candied raspberries.

My first sip, a fine balance of sinewy acidity and chewy tannins. This wine is absolutely refreshing and delicious (the raspberries carry through with the salted licorice). 

An easy, esoteric wine to recommend and available through your LCBO Vintages sections.

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Greener Days for Grüner Veltliner

Here in Niagara, we are finally beginning to experience the greener, warmer weather. The evenings are longer, the dusky shadows lengthen in front of us on the sidewalks and the verdant trees scent the sky.

Soon we'll be opening wine magazines telling us of the latest trends, what wine to drink during the warmer weather. Soon, more and more wine lovers will be heading to the LCBO coolers to seek out refreshing whites instead of brooding reds (wines that made the harsh winter tolerable, reminding us of the hotter days to come). 

I figure this is the time to offer my recommendation. 

AUSTRIA'S GRAPE: GRÜNER VELTLINER

In our Anglo-American culture, certain wines can be difficult to pronounce, especially those from Eastern Europe. The grape varieties of Greece raise eye-brows while German crossings, Scheurebe and Huxelrebe leave wine lovers bewildered as to where to put the accent. 

Grüner Veltliner, like Gewürztraminer, is fortunate enough to garner enough attention that wine buyers can put up with mispronunciation for the sake of a dry, refreshing white of white pepper and stone fruit character. (GROON-er FELT-leaner for those that want to make the attempt. I should emphasize, the 'r' in German has a slight guttural sound so instead of grrrewner, say GRWHOOnair...)

Of all of Austria's varieties, it is the most popular worldwide, planted on more than a third of the country's 48, 500 ha/119, 800 acres. In Lower Austria, it represent more than half of total white grape production and in Vienna, a third of all plantings. It can be used to make sparkling Austrian sekt, simple whites served at wine inns (Heurigen) as well as medium-bodied and opulent, concentrated wines.

Historically, its origins remain obscured, first documented in 1766 as Grüner Muskateller in the then Hapsburg Empire. We find 'Grüner Veltliner' first mentioned in 1855; by the 1930's it became more common. Near the end of the twentieth century, the grape emerged as the premier variety of Austria.

NOT JUST ANOTHER RIESLING

Unlike Germany's flagship variety, Grüner Veltliner is typically dry and made in a range of styles depending on where it is grown. 

In Lower Austria, the best of Austria's four regions (Weinbauregionen) for Grüner, one can find a wide range of offerings in the many subregions (Weinbaugebeite).

Wachau Grüner can age better than Riesling while retaining a complexity similar to white Burgundy. In the loam and loess soils of Kamptal and Kremstal, the wines offer notes reminiscent of Riesling. Here, the vineyards are steep and terraced for maximum exposure to the sun. The autumns are long and the grapes ripen allowing for the highest concentration of flavour compounds in the skin. 

In Weinviertel, the wines are cheaper but with often light, fresh, fruity and spicy notes. 

LETH GRÜNER VELTLINER 2009
This is a rather lush wine for a mild, spring evening. In the bouquet, the wine exudes peaches and apricot with a whiff of vanilla-mineral floating over the stone fruits. On the palate, you will find a comparable character as the wine follows through from the aromas to the flavours.

This is a versatile wine but I wouldn't recommend heavy meat dishes. Cod, sole, and salmon would work with a light cream sauce or a lemon pepper chicken. Either way, it's a nice way to ease into the greener season. 

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Henry of Pelham... I can't help it....

I have often thought about who I would consider my favourite winery to be in Niagara. I've visited and bought so many wines from so many establishments. It is so much to find such excellent wine just a hop, skip and a jump away from my own front door.

And there are so many great wines. Robyn's Block Chardonnay from Tawse is heart-throbbing delicious. Hillebrand's Trius Sauvignon Blanc is room shaking. Flatrock is fantastic for Riesling and Pinot; Konzelmann's reds are fantastic; Chateau des Charmes makes some of my absolute favourite Cabernet Franc, both estate and St. David's Bench. 

But if I have to choose... if I have to choose... well... I pick Henry of Pelham overall.

WHY HENRY OF PELHAM?

There are many reasons to love a winery.

First things first, I've always had a great time visiting Henry of Pelham. My first time, it was a wet, misty July 2009 afternoon. The world had disappeared behind a veil of rain. The windshield wipers wiped away the lightly pattering drops and I felt for a moment I didn't know where I was going.

And there, at the end of foggy end of 5th Street, right on Pelham Road, I found the quaint, rustic buildings of the boutique and restaurant.

That damp day, I talked with Zack and tried many wines. I was looking for work and mentioned my love of wine and my previous experience working for wine stores in British Columbia. He let me try most of the wines and I was dizzy with goodness (don't worry, I did my share of spitting).

Since that initial visit, I've been back numerous times and on every occasion felt at home and sufficiently welcome.

WELL, WHAT CAN I SAY, I LOVE THE WINE

The Speck Brothers, Paul, Matthew and Daniel just happen to make excellent wine. Last year I bought some Chardonnay and Riesling. In a previous blog, I drunkenly paired their Gamay with strawberries.

This year I recently sampled their 2008 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($19.95) and their 2008 Chardonnay Reserve ($14.95). If you're looking for buttery-toffee-apple goodness with a creamy and mineral feel, I'd suggested the former. If you're an unoaked lover of Chard, the latter which has a great pear-pineapple citrus zest, is your best bet. 

As for Riesling, you can't beat them.

Nope.

Yeah... I know, I know, Tawse, Cave's Spring and Thirty Bench make incredible Riesling. But I wear my heart on my sleeve for Henry of Pelham's approach to the great, Germanic variety.

At the top of the list, the Speck Family Reserve 2007 Riesling ($30.00) which turns my knees into dissolute puddles. The best of the best and only made from reduced yields and older vines. This is what Riesling should be year and year out. But that's a dream. And I can settle on this dream when it comes (and this dream can age for a long time).

If you're looking for something for the here and now, for Rieslings that you can open tonight for dinner, I'd suggest the 2008 Off-Dry Riesling Reserve to pair with spicy Thai dishes or the 2008 Riesling ($12.95) with schnitzel. Then there's the apple-delicious 2008 Riesling Reserve for those that prefer a dry style.

I can also recommend the 2009 Pinot Blanc which is very good for a grape variety I often refer to as Pinot 'Bland'.

NOT JUST WHITES BUT AWESOME REDS

If you're reading this and there's still time, rush out to Henry of Pelham and buy their 2007 Baco Noir Reserve ($24.95). It is phenomenal. The website describes it as jammy and I happen to agree. This wine reminds me of strawberry filling coated in butter and raspberries. Simply gorgeous and only a few left. 

If you like just regular Baco, their 2008 Baco Noir ($13.95) is the best in terms of delivery. Pelee Island makes a good value Baco but Henry of Pelham's is continually good. Dark fruit compote, mulberry and black berry. 

If you're looking for an outstanding, if not decimate-your-mind Pinot, try their 2007 Speck Family Reserve ($40.00) which will plummet you into cerebral bliss. Heavily praised, this Pinot Noir is rich and nuanced with multiple layers of menthol, dark fruit and holistic herbs. Like the Speck Family Reserve Riesling, it is hard to stand while drinking this one.

But if forty bucks is out of your price range and you're looking to impress your winter guests, I recommend the 2007 Cabernet Merlot Reserve ($24.95). This is a solid, if not exceptional Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Incredible, delicious, if you love French wine, Bistro-style wine, this is the bottle to grab. Black fruit, cassis, chocolate, and herbal, this has a hint of pencil shavings and just enough tannin to make this go-to for beef and barbeque cuisine.

(I confess, as I'm writing this blog, the 2007 Cabernet Merlot Reserve has been my attendant muse. An word-inspiring wine...)

FOR ANYTIME OF THE DAY, WEEK, MONTH or YEAR

I just really can't help it. From the visits to the wine lineup, Henry of Pelham has yet to disappoint me. Great prices, great selection. It is worth every single, frigging penny. 

Also, check out their Lifestyle wine selection, Sibling Rivalry.

Yes, I don't regret it. Henry of Pelham is my choice for the best winery. Period.

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