In-Depth: Deciphering Spanish Wine Labels

Wine labels from New World wine countries (i.e. the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South America and South Africa) are fairly easy to read. They offer wine consumers little if no trouble in navigating the script as you'll easily find the name of the producer, where the grapes were grown, the year and the variety right there in front of you.

Clear and simple.

Such is not the case in the Old World. For many producers in France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, the region plays a prominent role in wine labeling while the grape (or grapes), often viewed as the vehicle in which the wine expresses itself take a back seat making the buying experience a bit more confusing.

SPAIN - A BIT OLD, A BIT NEW

Of all the Old World countries, I find Spain (and to a certain extent Southern Italy) the most customer-friendly.

Here's a label from a premium and popular producer in the Rioja region, Marqués de Cáceres.  Cáceres, like many bodegas in the region make a blend of Tempranillo (in this case 85%) with Garnacha Tinta and Graciano (15%). The former is the staple variety of Rioja while the latter two are used to add alcohol and tannins to the wine.

Just below the bodega's name we find Vendimia Seleccionada which translates as 'Vintage Selection'.

2005 is the Vintage and an excellent one in Rioja. 

Then we find Denominación de Origen Calificada or DOC (or DOCa). 

Spain, like France, Italy and German have what is called an appellation system that ensures quality. The larger  controlled appellation system of Spain is called  Denominación de Origen (DO) and is governed by a Consejo Regulador. This latter organization is comprised of representatives from the regional government along with vine-growers, winemakers and merchants in the DO's area (i.e. Bierzo, Calatayud, Yecla, etc...)

DO regulations stipulate the boundaries of the region, the varieties allowed in wine production, yields and alcohol strength. If a wine doesn't meet these standards it can be either labelled Vino de Mesa (i.e. Table Wine) or Vino de La Tierra. The former often indicates basic if not low quality but the latter can simply mean the grapes making up the wine came from a larger area. For instance, Vino de La Tierra de Castilla indicates the wine has been sourced from vineyards throughout New Castile.

Just above DO is DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada) indicating the highest quality region. At this point only Rioja and Priorat have been given such a status. 

ANOTHER GLANCE

Here's another label from a Rioja bodega, Lan. (In this instance the wine is 100% Tempranillo - one can always check the company website for product details.)

We know already it is the 2006 vintage but what does Crianza mean?

In many New World countries, labels will read 'reserve' or 'proprietor's reserve'. These are often empty, blanket statements because in Canada or the USA, there is no law controlling their appearance on a bottle. It is often a marketing tool and the savvy consumer over time will undoubtedly have to learn how to distinguish the plonk dubbed 'reserve' from the more premium wines with the same title.

However, Spain, like Italy, do use such words and they have a purpose beyond superficial sales rhetoric. 

The DO or DOC not only guarantee quality and certify the region of origin but also indicate aging. 

TERMS TO LOOK OUT FOR:

Vino Joven (or 'young wine') may or may not have spent time in a barrel and wines are typically released a year after vintage.

Crianza (sometimes translated as 'breeding') are wines aged for at least two full years after harvest. Of those two years, the wine must have spent a minimum time of six months in oak casks. In Rioja, the time in oak must be one year.(NOTE: You may encounter 'Semi-crianza' or 'Roble' which are not official terms but will give some indication of oak aging).

Reserva and Gran Reserva grant the wines have been aged three years (at least one in oak) for the former and five years (of that time, two in oak) for the latter. 

Other phrases you may encounter in the Spanish wine section are Noble, Añejo and Viejo. 

Noble solely means the wines were stored a year in larger oak vats (no more than 600 litres) which will impart a slight oak character. Añejo indicates the wine is 'mature' after spending two years in cask or bottle while Viejo, meaning 'old', the wine is three years old and can very well show oxidative aging.

MODERN SPAIN

I mentioned that some Spanish wines have a bit of the New World influence.

Here's one more label we can look at.

Bodegas Castaño is the producer and I must say,  fairly modern in their approach. 

Though Lan and Marqués de Cáceres are popular brands and well-known and lauded amongst critics and connoisseurs, 'La Casona', the wine displayed here is meant to appeal to a younger, more novice wine market.

Moreover, this is a wine focused on grabbing the attention of consumers already familiar with such branded wines as Yellowtail and Berringer. 

The vintage is 2007 and the grape is Monastrell, the leading variety of The Levant or Spanish Mediterranean. 

Yecla is the DO and like Jumilla and Valencia produce full-bodied reds that can be high in alcohol and rich in black-berry and black licorice flavour. 

A FINAL WORD

Because Spain belongs to the Old World and is regulated by their appellation system, many labels will adhere to quality guidelines. 

However, Spanish wine is continuing to experience what many industry writers have called a 'revolution' and their wines are showing a New World influence, both inside and outside of the bottle. 

The combination of old and new not only ensure quality but will help consumers buy with confidence. Either way, the label should never halt your curiosity - in fact, it should stimulate it.

Bibliography

Jeff, Julian, The Wines of Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2006.

Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007.Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2006.

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Getting to Know... Spain

I've been thinking about the wine knowledge I've acquired along the way and how easy it is for me to navigate the Vintages section at the LCBO. The solid foundation I have is a result of appreciation courses as well as numerous hours spent poring over related books, articles and of course educational glasses of wine. (Check out of my Wine and Words: Books for Imbibers for great reads.)

And so I thought, considering there seems to be few blogs devoted to wine basics I would create a new series entitled 'Getting to Know...' as an introduction with accompanying links to more in-depth posts I've written.

SPAIN: A LITTLE HISTORY

Spain has been several countries spanning several centuries.

From Galicia in the North West to Catalonia in the east to Jerez in the south, Espana has been the harbor for sea-faring Phoenicians and Greeks, the land of loot for Roman legions and the humble birthplace of two Ceasars, Trajan (AD 98-117) and his successor, Hadrian (117-138). 

With the fall of Rome, Spain accommodated the invading Visigoths until newer visitors, some 7000 Berbers, under Arabic military leaders, landed at its southern tip in 711. Their main commander, Tariq, would give the Rock its name – Gibraltar (Gebel al-Tariq  – ‘mount’ of Tariq) and begin a great era of Muslim rule, a kind of Medieval Renaissance.

Spanish Moors controlled the Iberian peninsula with a tolerant fist and their domination  is romantically considered a period of relative peace, prosperity and innovation. The art, architecture and Castilian language of Spain began to take shape during these formative years. The Moors developed irrigation and introduced Spain to citrus fruits. 

Following Columbus' discovery of America and the last ousting of Muslim rule, the country became a world power comparable to then rising British Empire. 

But the mighty fall and Spain tumbled hard throughout the next three hundred years. For a moment, after numerous royal feuds there seemed to be a period of recovery in the early twentieth century but General Franco would put a halt to that. 

SPAIN IN THE MODERN WORLD 
Wine grapes in ancient times were often fermented in large stone tanks and then further aged in amphorae (i.e. Greek vases). In Spain, there is archeological evidence of these tijanas as well modern ones in more traditional wine making regions. 

In the 1950s and 60s, the wine world, after years of antiquated winemaking, discovered new stainless technology technology and Spain, with some inspiration from France and Australia began to reinvent itself. 

Today Spain is experiencing a modern wine revolution. Influenced by both New and Old World viticulture and vinification practices, the country has come into the twenty-first century.  

SPANISH VINES

In terms of wine production, Spain is third behind France and Italy (or Italy and France depending on the year). 

In terms of land under vine, however, Spain has the most with some 1,154, 000 ha/2, 851,600 acres. The reason for this discrepancy between production and parcels of land is that in such inhospitable landscapes such as La Mancha, the vines are planted several meters apart compared to the typical vine training systems of France and Italy.

Overall, this means less bunches per acre.

But being third is nothing to be ashamed of. Spanish varieties offer the wine consumer some beautiful alternatives to Chardonnay and Sangiovese. 

SPANISH VARIETIES: THE REDS

Tempranillo is grown throughout the Iberian peninsula and finds its roots in the majority of regions; it is rightly the flagship variety of Spain. 

Tempranillo has numerous aliases from Tinto de Pais to Cencibel to Tinta Roriz in Portugal (used in blends and in Port). The wines from the dark-skinned grape can make heady rich wines of black currant and plum in Ribera del Duero and Toro but finds its foremost expression in the Crianzas, Reservas and Gran Reservas of Rioja where it is made with minor percentages of Manzuelo and Graciano. The wines of Rioja tend to have a spicy-strawberry scent with lovely acidity.

Garnacha, known as Grenache in France, Australia and the United States is just behind Tempranillo. The variety is often utilized to add alcohol and body to blends. As a varietal, I find Garnacha wines have a certain brown-sugar blackberry character. 

Monastrell (known as Mouvedre in southern France) and Bobal are the main grapes of the The Levant on the Mediterranean coast. Both grapes make big, bold, full-bodied wines ideal for summer backyard barbeques. 

SPANISH VARIETIES: THE WHITES

As for whites, Spain makes a substantial number of quaffable if not high-quality wines (unlike Italy where a large portion of whites are little more than mundane).  

Viura (or Macabeo) is used to make lemony-light varietals but is also blended with Parellada and Xarel-lo to either make white Rioja or the sparkling wines of Cava. 

In the north, especially Rueda and Rías Baixas, whites dominate. 

Verdejo from Rueda in Old Castile is lush and seductive with melon and mango character while Albarino of Galicia is the perfect wine to pair with seafood - crisp, mineral-citrus. 

THE REGIONS OF SPAIN

The majority of Spanish wines you'll find in the LCBO will come from a specific DO (Denominación de Origen) or DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada). Like the French AOC or appellation system, these DOs indicate quality and indicate place of origin.

Here's a list of the most popular DOs and DOCs at the LCBO with prominent grape varieties utilized by the region in brackets:

Rías Baixas (Albariño, Loureira)

Bierzo (Mencía - a lighter red)

Ribero del Duero (Tempranillo or Tinto de Pais)

Rueda (Verdejo)

Toro and Cigales (Tempranillo)

Rioja (Tempranillo, Viura)

Calatayud (Garnacha)

Priorato and Monsant (Blend of French and Spanish red varieties)

Cava (Sparkling and still whites - Parellada, Macabeo and Exarel-lo)

Valencia, Jumilla, Yecla (Monastrell and/or Bobal)

La Mancha (Tempranillo)

This is a great list to begin with and please use the links to discover more about Spanish wine and build your confidence in the Vintages section.

RELATED LINKS: In-Depth: Deciphering Spanish Wine Labels

Bibliography

Crow, John Armstrong, Spain: The Root and The Flower, Berkley, University of
California Press, 1985.
Jeff, Julian, The Wines of Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2006.
Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007.

Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2006.

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Real Men Drink Rosé - Pink Wine From Chile, Spain and Argentina

Summer. A long weekend. Sunny skies. 

I wasn't feeling the greatest yesterday morning, a little under the weather. I'm pretty good at keeping tabs on my body so I called in sick, deciding not to risk feeling worse. 

I had a late breakfast and did some writing. Around three o'clock I headed on foot to the mall to buy groceries and get some fresh air. On the way there my brother called me on my cell, asking me what I was doing. 

"Walking to the mall."

"Can you pick up some groceries for me?"

"Sure, what?"

"Canned vegetables. Call me when you get there."

"Sure."

At the supermarket, I called him but I already had a feeling which supplies he needed to make his chili. I picked up all the ingredients with a bag of chips (Sea Salt and Vinegar) and headed over to the LCBO. I wanted something refreshing but not heavy. I've been drinking a lot of white wine this summer and I had hit my favourites too many times. 

What then? Well, I decided to go pink and picked a rosé. I'll admit, I didn't feel too manly walking up to the attractive blonde at the till, the one with the dusky voice like Scarlet Johansson, holding my  salmon-coloured bottle. I tried to be cool, not needing a bag after she rang it through.

"No, I'm good," and coolly slipped the chilled rosé into my President's Choice canvas bag.

At my brother's place, my father and him were tearing apart the kitchen,  preparing to open the wall above the oven to make a bar area. Amidst the dust, the exposed steel studs and conversations about electrical work, I opened the wine, a 2009 Cono Sur Merlot Rosé from Valle Central, Chile ($9.95) and it was damn tasty and a great pairing with the chips. It's medium-bodied with a nice, dry but round red berry-floral feel. It's no Tavel nor is it a White Zinfandel from Berringer.

Of course, amongst three guys on a summer day, a cold 750ml bottle doesn't last very long. So I headed back to the liquor store and picked up two more rosés. By the time I got back, my brother had nearly finished making chili, adding three spicy shots of Frank's Hot Sauce to the mix. 

I have to say, the rosés were not the ideal companion with this meal but they were wonderfully refreshing. While eating the spicy chili, a lake of sweat pouring off my forehead, I reached for a glass of  the 2009 La Casona de Castaño Monastrell Rosé from Yecla, Spain ($8.95). I found this wine had a similar body to the Cono Sur but with more raspberry character. I also got generous  waves of red licorice, blackberry and even a hint of earthy fig. Gorgeous wine with a bit of sweet on the palate.

For desert, peppermint chocolate ice cream and more rosé. Again, not the best wine and food pairing. The chili needed a heavier red for it to be perfectly suitable but because of the spice, the off-dry rosé really helped to soften the blows of Frank's Hot Sauce. With the ice cream, ideally, the wine should have been sweeter but hey, it doesn't always have to be harmonious. The 2009 Finca Flichman 'Misterio' Malbec-Shiraz Rosé from Argentina ($7.95). This one had a deeper strawberry, cherry and candied red delicious apple feel with a nice touch of kiwi. Off-dry as well but not 'blush' sweet.

All in all, I think my favourite was the Spanish rosé but all of them were respectfully cheap and genuinely cheerful. All available from the LCBO for limited summer release.

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Celebrating Spain: Torres and Viña Esmeralda

I watched Sunday's match and though I was cheering for the Dutch (my father is Dutch - hence my name, Broerse) I have to say Spain played a solid game.

I'm getting over the reeling heartbreak of Roeben's fatal and tragic near-miss, that one beautiful attempt in the second half when he had that one breathtaking breakaway. But how am I recovering? 

THE SWEET LOSS

Well, I'm drinking Torres' Viña Esmeralda, an excellent white Spanish wine from Catalunya. I figure this is the one true, less trying way of embracing the dreariness of defeat. I dearly love Spanish wine and I have to wonder what I might have written had Holland won. They are certainly not the wine-producing country Spain is with Heinekken as their flagship alcoholic beverage producer and distributor. I might be writing about Holland's beer king or the role the Dutch played in producing brandy (for another blog).

Alas, here I am with my Spanish white, a blend of 85% Moscatel  de Alejandra and 15% Gewürztaminer grown in the northeast of Spain. The wine has a bouquet of sun-kissed bananas,  peaches,  and pineapple. On the palate, you can taste the passion fruit, the kiwi and a minimal whisper of mineral and lime. It is off-dry and would be ideal with a summery fruit salad. 

TORRES: A TORCH AND TOWER FOR SPANISH WINE

But why this wine?

Well, if you want to celebrate Spain's victory, you should chose a wine from the greatest bodega in Spain's modern wine history. Torres, for those who don't know the incomparable bodega  is what you might call  the Mondavi of Iberia. 

The story really begins several decades ago with Miguel Torres Carbó who took over the family firm in Vilafranca del Penedès in 1932 at the age of 23. During the Spanish Civil War, Torres Bodega was badly damaged by shelling. Despite the costs of reviving and rebuilding his winery in 1940, Torres knew the key to success existed in exporting.

So with his wife Doña Margarita, the couple traveled throughout South America, the Far East and the Pacific Rim, Europe and North America in hopes of establishing contacts and gaining support for his dream of reviving the Spanish wine industry. He knew the export market after WWII was in rough shape. Europe and North America weren’t especially keen on importing wine from a country with a dictator holding the reigns. He found friends in Latin America and the Far East, where there was a much warmer reception.

In the 1960’s, Torres was credited with the first installation of stainless steel fermenting vessels and holding tanks in Spain. His journeys introduced him to the technologically savvy techniques from both the New and  Old Worlds,  ultimately choosing oak barriques to age his  finest wines and the temperature controlled tanks to produce his quality everyday wines.

He also imported and incorporated other French and European grape varities into his vineyards. It is because of him we find Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Gewürztraminer growing amongst Spain's Tempranillo, Monastrell, Carignan and Garnacha. 

With the rise of tourism in the 1960’s and 70’s, Torres name stood at the forefront both abroad and in his homeland.

PASSING ON THE TORCH

In 1991, Torres passed on, leaving the family business to his son and present owner, Miguel A. Torres. Waltraud Maczassek, whom he married in 1962, a German artist lends her name to the Riesling of the Torres line.

Torres has vineyards in both Chile’s Curico Valley and California’s Sonoma.

TO SPAIN

It is rightly believed that a World Cup victory can mean a boost in morale for a country. Spain's economy is presently shaky. If anything, the win is a glorious, golden gift for the hard working men and women of Spain. I hope the victory celebrations slip on continuously throughout the nights. I pray the country recovers from its economic woes and wins the world over again. To this, I raise a glass and savour the salud before bed.

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Bobal: Big, Beefy and Ideal for BBQ Season

Tempranillo, Garnacha and Monastrell are the three typical red varieties you find in the wines of Rioja, Navarra and Jumilla. 

Cava is a blend of Macebeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. 

Jerez relies on Palomino or Pedro Ximénez to make the fortified wines of Andalusia. 

Verdejo is to Rueda what Albariño is to Rias Biaxas - both champion grapes of cooler, northern "Green Spain".

But look out, there's another beautiful grape to keep your eye out for. 

BOBAL: THE NEW BIG GUN

For many years, Bobal was the go-to grape when Spanish winemakers wanted to add body to their hefty reds. It was little more than a workhorse grape, vastly under-appreciated - much like a Hollywood script doctor.

In recent years, the grape has revealed itself to be a stronger blending partner with the likes of Tempranillo and Garnacha. As a varietal wine, it has excellent aging potential especially in such DOs as Utiel-Requena and Valencia in the Levant. And unlike Monastrell, it has better acidity retention making for refreshing reds with structured tannins.

MUSTIGUILLO: A BODEGA FOR BOBAL

Established just little over a decade ago, this small family-owned bodega  located 100km west of Valencia  sits on 80 hectares of mostly Bobal grapes. Thus far, the Sarrión clan has refused to join the DO Utiel-Requena and their wines tend to fall under the designation of Vino de la Tierra el Terrerazo.

Mustiguillo has been highly praised, named one of the top twenty new wineries in  Food & Wine Magazine's annual Wine Issue (Oct. 2004). 

Their 2002 Finca Terrarazo was made from a blend of sixty-five percent Bobal, twenty percent Tempranillo and fifteen percent Cabernet Sauvignon with seventeen months in French oak barrels. The 2005 was rated 92 points by The Wine Advocates' Jay Miller and 91 points by Josh Reynolds of International Wine Cellar.

MESTIZAJE

If you want value, Mustiguillo's "Mestizaje" is the wine to grab for your BBQ dinners this summer. The 2005 was given 89 points by Jay Miller but the recent 2007 vintage received 90 points by the same critic.

Like the Finca Terrarazo, the wine is primarily Bobal (70% in this case) with Garnacha, Syrah, Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in for good measure and complexity. Oak and barrel-aged (6 months) the wine delivers heady red fruit, licorice, blueberry, brown sugar and a spicy black pepper finish. Ideal with steak and other flame-broiled fair.

MOVE OVER MALBEC - Last year Malbec was the go-to wine for backyard BBQ season. Let's make Bobal the new beef-friendly buddy.

Mustiguillo's "Mestizaje" is available in the Vintages section at your local LCBO for $16.95.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Jeffs, Julian, The Wines of Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2006.

Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007. 

Robinson, Jancis, The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2003.
http://www.lcbo.com
http://www.polanerselections.com/producer.php?pID=751

PHOTO SOURCE
http://www.sibaritia.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/bobal.jpg

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The Other 'Ribera' - Ribera del Júcar and the Lands of the Meseta

"In a place in La Mancha... of which I do not remember the name..."

- Miguel Cervantes, Don Quixote

The land of the Meseta, of Madrid and New Castile is the land of high central plains. It is the heart of Spain, decked with flat landscapes of red soil and stubby vines. In the distance, the sunburnt circle of mountains  gives one the feeling of immense isolation and wonder.

The windmills here aren't giants, no, they are short and their sails fly fast in the winter months when the plain's winds rush with a solemn howl over the landscape, creating Spain's lowest temperatures (-22 degrees Celcius). 

Following the Reconquista, Madrid became the capital. The city stood as far away from the coast as possible, central and also out of the greedy reaches of the regal but older kingdoms. Castile, Aragon, Navarre and Catalonia had longed scrapped and  squabbled with each other - Madrid would be free but  also become the new bureaucracy of the recently liberated 'Spain'. 

LA MANCHA AND ENVIRONS

Hands down, La Mancha makes the most wine in the Meseta. These are the value wines you find on the supermarket shelves of Europe and in the cheap wine section of the LCBO. They are big and fruity and simply fun to drink. Just look for Tempranillos from Vino de la Tierra de Castilla.

Valdepeñas, or 'Valley of the Stones' lies just south of La Mancha and produces some excellent Reservas and Gran Reservas. The area's history goes back to the Romans but many believe it was the monks of 12th century Burgundy who first brought Cencibel (aka Tempranillo) here. In the twentieth century, it was often considered the "Poor Man's Rioja" but as we find in the Twenty-First century, the wines can stand up to the best of North-Central Spain.

Almansa is considered 'the forefinger' of Castilla-La Mancha and could well have been assigned to the DO's (Denominación de Origin) of Valencia and the Levant. But politics is politics and borders fall where men lie but one thing's for sure, culturally, the region is more northern than Mediterranean. If anything, the one great common factor it has with its more eastern neighbors is the vast planting of Monastrell which dominates half the vineyards.

And there's also Manchuela, second-largest in size after massive La Mancha. The main grape here is Bobal which accounts for around 70% of the vineyard. 

RIBERA DEL JÚCAR

In the world of wine, we remember the big names: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Tuscany, Rioja, Jerez, Barossa, Marlborough, Mosel-Saar-Ruher, Napa, etc...etc...

Even in Spain-loving wine circles, the word 'Ribera' is often followed by 'del Duero' and we think of the robust, passionate and heady wines of the north. We think of Vega Sicilia's famous dark wines that can age for decades. 

There are other Ribera's, however. There's Ribeira Sacra in Galicia; Ribera del Andarax in Andalusia and Ribera del Guadiana in Extremadura in western Spain on the River Guadiana. 

In the Meseta, we find Ribera del Júcar fiendishly sandwiched between La Mancha and Manchuela. The D.O. lies in the province of Cuenca and surrounds seven small villages. 

There is more of a Mediterranean climate at work and it's not as harsh as the heated plains of La Mancha. It also rains more in Ribera del Júcar than in the land of Don Quixoite's  monstrous windmills: 20% percent higher to be exact. This means the vines don't have to dig down so deep to find water. 

The soils of La Mancha are red-brown sand and clay while in Júcar you'll notice outcrops of marl and limestone. This makes a difference as well. La Mancha, as I mentioned produces busty, brawny reds but here, although the wines are also big there is a seductive, perfumed quality which makes the reds intoxicating even before you sip them. 

The main grape varieties include Cencibel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bobal, Merlot and Syrah.

CASA DE ILLANA

La Mancha and Castilla are all about value. The same goes for Ribera del Júcar. 

The 2006 Casa de Illana Bobal/Tempranillo/Syrah blend offers the wine lover a gorgeous red without the hefty price tag. On the nose you'll notice perfumed black pepper and blueberries. An earthy spice seems to float and flower in the glass. Take a sip and the dark fruit will rush over your palate along with hints of smoke and dashes of baking spice. A lovely, delicate wine and only $12.95 at the LCBO in your Vintages section.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007.


PHOTO SOURCE
http://image.guardian.co.uk/sys-images/Books/Pix/pictures/2007/09/20/windmills400.jpg

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Spain, Calatayud and Manga del Brujo

Why do strong men fatigue themselves with dumbbells?

To dig a vineyard is a worthier exercise.

- Marcus Valerius Martialis (Martial) (40 AD - 103 AD)

 

Spain is a fascinating country. A 19th century travel writer once described it as a 'bundle of units tied together by a rope of sand'. Even if we look at Spain's history, we see how true this statement is.

SPAIN BY DIFFERENT NAMES

Ancient settlers, many of whom came from the continent of Africa to Europe once called the country Iberia for its many rivers. 

The Greeks who arrived shortly thereafter named this arid land of solemn deserts, rugged, white mountains and wilderness, Hesperus,  or 'the land of the sunsets'. For the many men and women in the centuries of Homer, Hesiod, Pindar and Plato, the country we know as Spain was once the western border of the known world.

The Carthaginians saw it differently. While exploring this beautiful country of sunsets, they found it inhabited with numerous rabbits so they called it Espana - their word for our furry, carrot crunching  friend. The Romans followed fast - they came, saw and conquered (you know the deal) and took from their defeated enemies this particular name and since then, Espana or Spain has stayed with us. 

So really, after the rivers and the sunsets, the bunny rabbits won out. But not for long...

MOORISH SPAIN

With the fall of Rome, the Visigoths had their day in the sun and in the region of Spain, the remaining Roman legions simply could not defend the land against the stronger invading barbarians.

The conquerors, however were conquered themselves. 

There is a fascinating legend that one Visigoth king ignored a certain ritual of his predecessors. For many years, a tower was routinely locked. Seven kings had successively put seven locks on the tower door.  The eighth king, Roderick, decided to satisfy his curiosity. He had the locks broken and the door opened. What he found proved surprising.

On the inside walls of the tower were pictures of marauding horseman with strange swords. In the centre of the room, a golden vase with a scroll. The scroll simply read that whosoever broke the locks of the tower would be destroyed by the men depicted on the surroundings walls.

In 711 B.C. a man named al-Tariq lead a vast force of 7000 men across the Strait separating Spain from Africa. The man would lend his name to the rock - Gibralatar or mountain (gebel) of Tariq.

Roderick was defeated in 712. 

For nearly 800 years, the region of Spain and especially south Spain would be known as al-Andalus or 'Land of the Vandals' (i.e. Visigoths). 

WINES AND AL-ANDALUS

The majority of southern Spanish architecture was heavily inspired by the Moorish invaders. The Spanish language too was shaped by the Arabic and for us English speakers, the influence trickles down. Alcove, alabaster, alchemy, alcohol - all come from the Arabic.

In terms of wine, the Moors of al-Anadalus were relatively lax. They allowed the conquered Christians to grow grapes. In those days, the Eucharist was a fundamental ritual in the church. Fun-loving Muslims would  often visit these houses of God the way modern wine drinkers today visit a wine bar.They didn't so much partake of the Eucharist but joyfully sample the goods grown in the vineyards.

If that doesn't suggest their easy relationship with wine one can look at the poetry of the time which is laden with wine references. 

CHRISTIAN SPAIN AND CALATAYUD

After the Moors came the Christians or really a disjointed but... unified band of Christians. Between 711 and 1492 we find a lot of internal strife and struggle in Muslim Spain. As I mentioned, there was a laxness with the ruling Moors. Those followers of Islam in Africa that objected to the artistic and sometimes decadent culture of Al-Anadalus tried to rectify the situation by crossing over Gibralatar and taking over. There were numerous conflicts of rule within the different factions and the small but determined Christian tribes of the wet north found ways of taking advantage, gaining strength in numbers and pitting their enemies against each other.

In the 15th century, the last of the Moors were ousted from rule and new Spanish leaders took over.  

Speaking of the 15th century, it was apparently the architecture of this time that the winemakers of an excellent Calatayud wine, Manga del Brujo are paying homage to.

Before I go any further, I have to mention that Calatayud is located in north-eastern Spain. It is approximately 100km south of Rioja and is known for its fairly high terrain (800 metres above sea level). The countryside is planted with fruit trees (many of which are peach) and vineyards. Of the wine grapes grown, Garnacha is the mainstay taking up 65% of the vineyard. The vines are low-yielding and old vine. Tempranillo, Syrah and Monastrell are also present but don't command the same space and attention.  

In the time of the Romans, the region boasted a thriving population and acted as a staging post for the legions. The sardonic and sarcastic epigramist Martial was born here. 

But we actually get the name Calatayud from the Moors. It is a corruption of Qualat Ayub or Castle of Ayub (Job). 

So you see how it all comes together...

MANGA DEL BRUJO
I love history and I love how it can interweave through our drinking experience. It is one thing to appreciate a wine on the sensory level, I find it more thrilling to take the tasting to a new level by looking at the world it hails from. 

I also love how the winemaker is honoring the history of the region.  The old world, the old buildings, and the old vines all coming together. The wine has a weight, a density that may have inspired winemaker Norrel Robertson MW to find a co-relation with the buildings of Papa Luna. 

The Garnacha used for this wine lends a robust, dark fruit component. I also find a lovely brown-sugar, tobacco compote element on the palate with hints of black pepper. 

The wine is definitely rich, lush and seductive and at $15.95 in your Vintages section at the LCBO, it will become a highlight for dinner conversation.

And if you can bring up the history and connect it the dark liquid in your glass - well, all the better.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Crow, John Armstrong, Spain: The Root and The Flower, Berkley, University of
California Press, 1985.
Johnston, Hugh, The Story of Wine. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2004.
Jeff, Julian, The Wines of Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2006.
Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007.

PHOTO SOURCE 
http://www.turismodearagon.com/files/PapaLuna.JPG

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A Beautiful Find - "Cautivo" Rioja 2005 Crianza

Years ago I attended a blind tasting of fine wines put on by a collector. There were wines from all over the world, many of them cellared for ten years and up (I was surprised to find how complex and intriguing a D'Arenberg Shiraz/Grenache blend could be after a decade). 

Of the reds, there was one special wine that kept evolving in leaps and bounds within my glass. At first, the fruit came forward - lush and lively strawberry. After a few swirls, the cinnamon and nutmeg started to come out. Another swirl and I found myself breathing in tobacco, saddle leather and a seductive herbal note I couldn't quite name but the mystery intrigued me.

I would have sworn the wine was an aged Chianti - the light red fruit, the dusty baking spice and cedar. Throughout the hour I had with the wine, it kept going and going, becoming more complex, more fascinating.  At the end, when the bottles were revealed I found out no, it wasn't an Italian wine but a red Rioja from Central-Eastern Spain!

A Rioja Gran Reserve from 1993 to be exact. A wine that had seen over ten years in a bottle. 

I was blown away. If the wine was a person, I would have stayed up all night and listened to its stories. 

TIME AND WINE

Trying and tasting fine, aged wines can be a rare and wonderful experience for both the novice and experienced connoisseur alike. Many of us buy a wine and uncork (or un-cap it) within 24 hours of our purchase. It's just the way things go. But when we are given the opportunity to taste a wine that has seen years, if not decades in a bottle, our perception of wine can dramatically change. 

WINE NEEDS TIME THE WAY VINES NEED SUNLIGHT
After fermentation, when the new wines are transferred from one vat to another to age, time is the only way to bring everything together. Without the passing of time, the red and whites we consume at our dinner tables, on our patios, with our friends and family would be disjointed, harsh and cloudy. 

Even after bottling, a wine still needs more time. But once it's supposedly ready (no wine is truly ready because it will be always changing) it's up to the consumer to decide when to pop and pour. 

For whites like Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Viognier, it's usually best to buy and drink as soon as possible. 

For some young reds, usually the producer recommends ready consumption; others say hold off but who can?

 

For wines in a higher price age, wine drinkers need to consult experts on when to pour. 

WHEN IS ENOUGH TIME?
Sometimes we'll never know the right moment to open a wine. Most of the wines we buy for parties and for easy going get-togethers are fairly young. Wouldn't it be great to bring something unique to the table?

With this in mind, I highly recommend a spectacular if not beautiful find at the LCBO: 'Cautivo' 2005 Crianza from Bodegas Heredad De Baroja from Elvillar de Alava.

ELVILLAR DE ALAVA

North of the town of  Logrono and the River Ebro and just south of the rugged Cordillera Cantábrica (Cantabrian Mountains) lies the Rioja sub-zone of Alavesa. The climate is comparatively cool compared to the rest of Rioja and sees more rain than Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja to the south.

Within Rioja Alavesa is Elvillar, a wine area protected by the cool, damp winds of the Atlantic by the mountains. The soil is fairly chalky made of calcareous clay.

For those that have tried Rioja, the wines of the region are some of the lightest but have the most finesse. 

BODEGAS HEREDAD DE BAROJA

Fernando Meruelo started his bodega in 1964. He remains the current owner and is continually determined to select the best grapes for his wine. 

The wines of "Cautivo" line are the ones ready for everyday consumption beginning with a Blanco (using the Viura grape - a.k.a Macabeo) and ending with a Reserva and Gran Reserva (both using Tempranillo). 

Available at the LCBO is the "Cautivo" 2005 Crianza, made from 100% Tempranillo. 

A Crianza in Spain is a wine that has been aged for at least two years,  typically six months of which has seen time in small American oak casks.

A Joven is young and may or may not have seen time in oak. 

A Reserva (which is just above Crianza) is aged for three years with a minimum of one year and oak; a Gran Reserva has been aged five years with at least two years in wood and three in bottle.

I highly recommend the Crianza. The grapes were picked in 2005, the wines were aged in oak and then bottled and further aged. 2005 was an exceptional year in Spain (rated 'E' for 'Excellente') and with the 'Cautivo' you can tell.

There is a strong strawberry character but with time and age, you will discover another world. Tobacco, leather, barnyard with just a hint of cinnamon from the American oak. 

The wine's bouquet, however, continues to evolve and becomes more seductive and fine as the minutes go by.

Again, time is a luxury and if you're pressed to find something unique and rewarding, I highly recommend this beautiful wine. At $13.95 it brings wonderful value to any wine consuming occasion and would pair well with light meat dishes and traditional Spanish paella. 

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The Spanish Mediterranean: The Levant In-Depth

 

Vistas de la Ciudad El Faro

There I’ll enter, letting my soul slip

Into the loving voice of grapes to say,

“Trample my heart, it’s already ripe”

 - Miguel Hernández (1910-1942 – native of Alicante)

There is more to Spain that the wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, let alone the fortified wines of Jerez.

In the east, just south of Catalunya is the region where the sun gets up (or levantarse in Spanish), the beaches are bountiful and beautiful and the architecture, exotic and quaint, a melodic mix of Moorish and Latin influences.

VALENCIA

Barcelona holds the honor of Spain’s biggest sea port but the city of Valencia is the largest wine port. So big in fact that the local fishermen have complained about being bullied out by the numerous bulk container ships. The result, a nearby harbor was built exclusively for them.

Besides shipping out the majority of Spain’s wine and being the busy “boulevard to the sea”, it is the home of paella, Mediterranean Spain’s gift to seafood cuisine (it also helps that Valencia is the rice capital of the country).

In terms of wine, there are three sub-zones outside of the city: Valentino, Alto Turia (both in the east and northeast) and Clariano in the south.

Valencian vineyard

WINE STYLES OF VALENCIA AND THE LEVANT

There are a variety of styles made from the dry to the sweet. The quarter of the varieties produced come from the mundane Merseguera, a staple variety of the Levant. Critically viewed as a bland grape, it does have a refreshing light herbal zing to it. Easy to drink, but not memorable.

Other whites include: Malvasia Riojana (a grape of Greek origin also used for oak-aged white Rioja), Pedro Ximénez (used in Sherry), some Chardonnay and Verdil, a promising grape according to John Radford in his The New Spain.

In terms of red varieties, Garnacha Tinto and Bobal are used in rosados with Monastrell being the main red.

Most wine drinkers know Monastrell as Mourvedre in France and Mataro in Australia, this grape is either made into a varietal wine or a blend with Tempranillo and the international variety, Cabernet Sauvignon in southern Spain. These wines are worth seeking out as they offer connoisseurs more quality. However, because of the incredible heat which contributes to immensely juice grapes, these wines are rarely aged and better off drunk young. Monastrell has been quite popular with Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, many Jumilla and Yecla wines gaining 90+ points. 

OTHER DOs OF THE LEVANT:

UTIEL-REQUENA

In Spain, La Mancha is considered the first 'scorcher' (i.e. hot climate) DO in Spain followed closely by Utiel-Requena.

Bobal makes up 80% of the vineyards with Tempranillo and Garnacha making up the rest. Some wines are fermented here then shipped east and bottled under the Valencia DO.

There are some amazingly rich reds grown in the region made in the doble pasta style. Basically, the grapes are crushed as they normally are then “the wine is run off and another consignment of crushed grapes is put into the same vessel on top of the previous skins and pulp” (The New Spain). The Result: a wine with big power and mucho, mucho colour.

ALICANTE

This DO shares the heat of the south and the vines are trained low to the ground. The wines here have traditionally between sweeter-styles but there are emerging pockets of fine red wine producers coming onto the scene with Monastrell leading the pack. The reds I’ve tried from Alicante have tended to be incredibly fruity, packed with a delicious, deep ruby punch of dark cherry. They are rarely expensive and easy to consume. If you can serve these wines slightly chilled to bring out the flavor.

MURCIA AND ENVIRONS: JUMILLA, BULLAS and YECLA

When the Moors conquered the majority of Spain in the 8th century, they brought not only their culture but agriculture. They were able to provide irrigation to the seething hot south. This is the land where a vast majority of our citrus fruits were first introduced to Spain: oranges, bananas and lemons.

Nowadays, you’ll find the Moorish influence has not waned by no means – Mursia (from the Arabic Mursiyah) has become the canning centre of Spain, with apricots and peaches being the main fruits.

Surrounding Mursia in a fan like spread are Bullas, Jumilla and Yecla.

Monastrell

Bullas grows 95% Monastrell with a small amount of Tempranillo and Garnacha. The town itself has a diverse past beginning with the Romans and seeing itself as heavily fortified castle under the Moorish Caliph, Abd-Al Rahman. Finally, during the reconquesta it fell into the hands of King Alfonso the Sage providing protection to the neighboring towns and villages.

Jumilla was largely a bulk wine region, selling everything, satisfying the market. So what happened? Well, in 1989, Phylloxera (that nasty little aphid known for eating European vine rootstocks) showed up a hundred years late. Production plummeted to one-third of what it had previously churned out. The region eventually recovered with winemakers starting over, moving forward, ready with a new approach. Research by the local Oenological Station believed that Monastrell could perform better here.

Yecla is a small inland enclave centered around the town of Yecla in the province of Murcia. It is the only DO in Spain to have the distinction of containing but a single municipality.

The vineyards are situated on gentle hillsides at altitudes of 400-800 metres, surrounded by even higher hills and mountains, providing some excellent views. Archaeological investigation has revealed that wine has been made in the area for nearly 2000 years, most likely by the Phoenicians then the Romans.

This wines in this region are relatively young and fruity. Years ago, Yecla supplied wine for bulk blending and export and for a time, fortified wines. It is a region that is finding its own, producing styles that are extremely appealing to new wine drinkers.

Bibliography
Crow, John Armstrong, Spain: The Root and The Flower, Berkley, University of
California Press, 1985.

Davidson, Alan (ed). Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford University Press: Oxford, 1999.

Grigson, Jane (ed). World Atlas of Food,Mitchell Beaszley:London 1974

Jeff, Julian, The Wines of Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2006.
Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007.

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