In-Depth: Deciphering Spanish Wine Labels

Wine labels from New World wine countries (i.e. the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South America and South Africa) are fairly easy to read. They offer wine consumers little if no trouble in navigating the script as you'll easily find the name of the producer, where the grapes were grown, the year and the variety right there in front of you.

Clear and simple.

Such is not the case in the Old World. For many producers in France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, the region plays a prominent role in wine labeling while the grape (or grapes), often viewed as the vehicle in which the wine expresses itself take a back seat making the buying experience a bit more confusing.

SPAIN - A BIT OLD, A BIT NEW

Of all the Old World countries, I find Spain (and to a certain extent Southern Italy) the most customer-friendly.

Here's a label from a premium and popular producer in the Rioja region, Marqués de Cáceres.  Cáceres, like many bodegas in the region make a blend of Tempranillo (in this case 85%) with Garnacha Tinta and Graciano (15%). The former is the staple variety of Rioja while the latter two are used to add alcohol and tannins to the wine.

Just below the bodega's name we find Vendimia Seleccionada which translates as 'Vintage Selection'.

2005 is the Vintage and an excellent one in Rioja. 

Then we find Denominación de Origen Calificada or DOC (or DOCa). 

Spain, like France, Italy and German have what is called an appellation system that ensures quality. The larger  controlled appellation system of Spain is called  Denominación de Origen (DO) and is governed by a Consejo Regulador. This latter organization is comprised of representatives from the regional government along with vine-growers, winemakers and merchants in the DO's area (i.e. Bierzo, Calatayud, Yecla, etc...)

DO regulations stipulate the boundaries of the region, the varieties allowed in wine production, yields and alcohol strength. If a wine doesn't meet these standards it can be either labelled Vino de Mesa (i.e. Table Wine) or Vino de La Tierra. The former often indicates basic if not low quality but the latter can simply mean the grapes making up the wine came from a larger area. For instance, Vino de La Tierra de Castilla indicates the wine has been sourced from vineyards throughout New Castile.

Just above DO is DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada) indicating the highest quality region. At this point only Rioja and Priorat have been given such a status. 

ANOTHER GLANCE

Here's another label from a Rioja bodega, Lan. (In this instance the wine is 100% Tempranillo - one can always check the company website for product details.)

We know already it is the 2006 vintage but what does Crianza mean?

In many New World countries, labels will read 'reserve' or 'proprietor's reserve'. These are often empty, blanket statements because in Canada or the USA, there is no law controlling their appearance on a bottle. It is often a marketing tool and the savvy consumer over time will undoubtedly have to learn how to distinguish the plonk dubbed 'reserve' from the more premium wines with the same title.

However, Spain, like Italy, do use such words and they have a purpose beyond superficial sales rhetoric. 

The DO or DOC not only guarantee quality and certify the region of origin but also indicate aging. 

TERMS TO LOOK OUT FOR:

Vino Joven (or 'young wine') may or may not have spent time in a barrel and wines are typically released a year after vintage.

Crianza (sometimes translated as 'breeding') are wines aged for at least two full years after harvest. Of those two years, the wine must have spent a minimum time of six months in oak casks. In Rioja, the time in oak must be one year.(NOTE: You may encounter 'Semi-crianza' or 'Roble' which are not official terms but will give some indication of oak aging).

Reserva and Gran Reserva grant the wines have been aged three years (at least one in oak) for the former and five years (of that time, two in oak) for the latter. 

Other phrases you may encounter in the Spanish wine section are Noble, Añejo and Viejo. 

Noble solely means the wines were stored a year in larger oak vats (no more than 600 litres) which will impart a slight oak character. Añejo indicates the wine is 'mature' after spending two years in cask or bottle while Viejo, meaning 'old', the wine is three years old and can very well show oxidative aging.

MODERN SPAIN

I mentioned that some Spanish wines have a bit of the New World influence.

Here's one more label we can look at.

Bodegas Castaño is the producer and I must say,  fairly modern in their approach. 

Though Lan and Marqués de Cáceres are popular brands and well-known and lauded amongst critics and connoisseurs, 'La Casona', the wine displayed here is meant to appeal to a younger, more novice wine market.

Moreover, this is a wine focused on grabbing the attention of consumers already familiar with such branded wines as Yellowtail and Berringer. 

The vintage is 2007 and the grape is Monastrell, the leading variety of The Levant or Spanish Mediterranean. 

Yecla is the DO and like Jumilla and Valencia produce full-bodied reds that can be high in alcohol and rich in black-berry and black licorice flavour. 

A FINAL WORD

Because Spain belongs to the Old World and is regulated by their appellation system, many labels will adhere to quality guidelines. 

However, Spanish wine is continuing to experience what many industry writers have called a 'revolution' and their wines are showing a New World influence, both inside and outside of the bottle. 

The combination of old and new not only ensure quality but will help consumers buy with confidence. Either way, the label should never halt your curiosity - in fact, it should stimulate it.

Bibliography

Jeff, Julian, The Wines of Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2006.

Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007.Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2006.

Read more...

Getting to Know... Spain

I've been thinking about the wine knowledge I've acquired along the way and how easy it is for me to navigate the Vintages section at the LCBO. The solid foundation I have is a result of appreciation courses as well as numerous hours spent poring over related books, articles and of course educational glasses of wine. (Check out of my Wine and Words: Books for Imbibers for great reads.)

And so I thought, considering there seems to be few blogs devoted to wine basics I would create a new series entitled 'Getting to Know...' as an introduction with accompanying links to more in-depth posts I've written.

SPAIN: A LITTLE HISTORY

Spain has been several countries spanning several centuries.

From Galicia in the North West to Catalonia in the east to Jerez in the south, Espana has been the harbor for sea-faring Phoenicians and Greeks, the land of loot for Roman legions and the humble birthplace of two Ceasars, Trajan (AD 98-117) and his successor, Hadrian (117-138). 

With the fall of Rome, Spain accommodated the invading Visigoths until newer visitors, some 7000 Berbers, under Arabic military leaders, landed at its southern tip in 711. Their main commander, Tariq, would give the Rock its name – Gibraltar (Gebel al-Tariq  – ‘mount’ of Tariq) and begin a great era of Muslim rule, a kind of Medieval Renaissance.

Spanish Moors controlled the Iberian peninsula with a tolerant fist and their domination  is romantically considered a period of relative peace, prosperity and innovation. The art, architecture and Castilian language of Spain began to take shape during these formative years. The Moors developed irrigation and introduced Spain to citrus fruits. 

Following Columbus' discovery of America and the last ousting of Muslim rule, the country became a world power comparable to then rising British Empire. 

But the mighty fall and Spain tumbled hard throughout the next three hundred years. For a moment, after numerous royal feuds there seemed to be a period of recovery in the early twentieth century but General Franco would put a halt to that. 

SPAIN IN THE MODERN WORLD 
Wine grapes in ancient times were often fermented in large stone tanks and then further aged in amphorae (i.e. Greek vases). In Spain, there is archeological evidence of these tijanas as well modern ones in more traditional wine making regions. 

In the 1950s and 60s, the wine world, after years of antiquated winemaking, discovered new stainless technology technology and Spain, with some inspiration from France and Australia began to reinvent itself. 

Today Spain is experiencing a modern wine revolution. Influenced by both New and Old World viticulture and vinification practices, the country has come into the twenty-first century.  

SPANISH VINES

In terms of wine production, Spain is third behind France and Italy (or Italy and France depending on the year). 

In terms of land under vine, however, Spain has the most with some 1,154, 000 ha/2, 851,600 acres. The reason for this discrepancy between production and parcels of land is that in such inhospitable landscapes such as La Mancha, the vines are planted several meters apart compared to the typical vine training systems of France and Italy.

Overall, this means less bunches per acre.

But being third is nothing to be ashamed of. Spanish varieties offer the wine consumer some beautiful alternatives to Chardonnay and Sangiovese. 

SPANISH VARIETIES: THE REDS

Tempranillo is grown throughout the Iberian peninsula and finds its roots in the majority of regions; it is rightly the flagship variety of Spain. 

Tempranillo has numerous aliases from Tinto de Pais to Cencibel to Tinta Roriz in Portugal (used in blends and in Port). The wines from the dark-skinned grape can make heady rich wines of black currant and plum in Ribera del Duero and Toro but finds its foremost expression in the Crianzas, Reservas and Gran Reservas of Rioja where it is made with minor percentages of Manzuelo and Graciano. The wines of Rioja tend to have a spicy-strawberry scent with lovely acidity.

Garnacha, known as Grenache in France, Australia and the United States is just behind Tempranillo. The variety is often utilized to add alcohol and body to blends. As a varietal, I find Garnacha wines have a certain brown-sugar blackberry character. 

Monastrell (known as Mouvedre in southern France) and Bobal are the main grapes of the The Levant on the Mediterranean coast. Both grapes make big, bold, full-bodied wines ideal for summer backyard barbeques. 

SPANISH VARIETIES: THE WHITES

As for whites, Spain makes a substantial number of quaffable if not high-quality wines (unlike Italy where a large portion of whites are little more than mundane).  

Viura (or Macabeo) is used to make lemony-light varietals but is also blended with Parellada and Xarel-lo to either make white Rioja or the sparkling wines of Cava. 

In the north, especially Rueda and Rías Baixas, whites dominate. 

Verdejo from Rueda in Old Castile is lush and seductive with melon and mango character while Albarino of Galicia is the perfect wine to pair with seafood - crisp, mineral-citrus. 

THE REGIONS OF SPAIN

The majority of Spanish wines you'll find in the LCBO will come from a specific DO (Denominación de Origen) or DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada). Like the French AOC or appellation system, these DOs indicate quality and indicate place of origin.

Here's a list of the most popular DOs and DOCs at the LCBO with prominent grape varieties utilized by the region in brackets:

Rías Baixas (Albariño, Loureira)

Bierzo (Mencía - a lighter red)

Ribero del Duero (Tempranillo or Tinto de Pais)

Rueda (Verdejo)

Toro and Cigales (Tempranillo)

Rioja (Tempranillo, Viura)

Calatayud (Garnacha)

Priorato and Monsant (Blend of French and Spanish red varieties)

Cava (Sparkling and still whites - Parellada, Macabeo and Exarel-lo)

Valencia, Jumilla, Yecla (Monastrell and/or Bobal)

La Mancha (Tempranillo)

This is a great list to begin with and please use the links to discover more about Spanish wine and build your confidence in the Vintages section.

RELATED LINKS: In-Depth: Deciphering Spanish Wine Labels

Bibliography

Crow, John Armstrong, Spain: The Root and The Flower, Berkley, University of
California Press, 1985.
Jeff, Julian, The Wines of Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2006.
Radford, John, The New Spain. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2007.

Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2006.

Read more...

German Tasting at the Top of the CN Tower - Riesling & Company 2011

The Canadian and German wine industry share some common but equally unique elements. Firstly, we are both countries on the fringe of where wine grapes can be grown. Secondly, our love affair with Riesling, a cool climate varietal that can often find its best expression in Mosel slate and Niagara Bench limestone. 

Beyond that, we Canadian wine imbibers have to recognize and be thankful for Germany's contribution to our industry. It was a German immigrant, Johann Schiller in 1811 who made the first vintage near present day Mississauga.

Though the 'urban legend' is being is disputed by York University Professor, Richard Jarret, it's still nice to have something to believe in, a mythical father figure and hey, he's German,and that can't be in bad in consideration of the recent tasting at the top of the CN tower on May 17th.

HORIZONS ON A CLOUDY WINE-TASTING DAY

An impressive showing of German wine to say the least with an outstanding view of downtown Toronto to compliment the tasting.

There were 20+ stations to choose from matched with a wide assortment of traditional German and Indian cuisine to try with the right wine.

I will admit, the aromas from the food stations wafting through the room made it difficult to appreciate the delicate bouquets of several German Rieslings. A minor complaint on my behalf considering where we were tasting but I know some wine lovers in the crowd found it trying to indulge in these sensations.

Aside from that, it was less crowded than I expected and thankfully so as the majority of stations were placed in restaurants spaces best reserved for intimate dinners. The tasting often felt confined, sometimes claustrophobic making spitting difficult as wine critics and connoisseurs had to contort themselves to get to spit buckets. 

THE WINES - THE GUT, THE GREAT

There was much German conversation and intense discussion. From business cards and appealing deals between wine agents and potential buyer and restaurant representatives, to the casual joking and ever-perennial wine tasting notes, yesterday's offerings were gut to say the least. 

Personal favourites included Dr.Loosen wines of the Mosel and Pfalz, especially the Villa Wolf 2009 Gewürztraminer and the Blue Slate 2009 Riesling Kabinett, the latter wine offering a mineral tingle of apples and pear acid. Their 2009 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder) had the right balance of smoky-ash and red cherry.

Another couldn't-miss table featured the wines represented by Churchill Cellars of Toronto. I especially loved the Weingut Rappenhof 2009 Grauer Burgunder, a great example of German Pinot Gris from the Rheinhessen.

And the table just over, Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung with several excellent Rieslings, from dry to sweeter Auselese. Their two Pinot Noirs, however, the 2008 Edition PW and 2008 'Daniel' were phenomenal (ausgezeichnet!). The latter was outstanding and made the trip to T.O. all the more excellent. I've encountered Spätburgunder from Baden before but its to the Rheingau's credit that these two beautiful offerings have changed my opinion on German Pinot Noir. Both were smoky cassis with brooding spice and silky vanilla. The acidity on both made the wines closer to succulent and would have paired equally well with the ham they were serving two stations over.

Other highlights included Weingut Balthasar Ress 1998 Riesling Spätlese from Hattenheim Nussbrunnen - simply a gorgeous example of how Riesling can age intensely into the liquid gold nectar of orange-peal-apple-honey.

There was also Weingut Markus Molitor; their 2002 Riesling Auslese from Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr (i.e. Zeltling's vineyard 'Sonnenuhr'), a caramel candy and apple expression that would have effectively paired with the creamy German dessert - which I was far too full to approach.

Weingut Studert Prüm and Max Ferd Richter over-delivered with their selection of Rieslings. I fell in tender love with the 2009 Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelreich of the latter producer, that mineral-stone-apple I have come to associate with the best of the green bottle Mosel wines.

ALLES IN ORDNUNG; ALLES ENDE

Everything in order but things must end.

I missed several tables for lack of time and lack of energy. A moody, overcast day made for a strange light at the top of the CN tower. A pensive but philosophical light ideal for the German philosophers of old but also to give one a sense of the light in such places as Southern Germany where the best white wine in the world is made.

White wine made for the top of the world.

Read more...

Pinot Blanc for a Moody Day

I don't mind the rain. I prefer the overcast sometimes. The black, slick streets, the green leaves and white sky reflecting off the roads, that damp verdant smell of wet soil and shower-kissed lawns. There is a pensive aura in the atmosphere which can often be balanced not by a boisterous, black-pepper Shiraz or red currant cab but something lovely, lively, and interesting. 

Something different...

A CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOCK

In the world of Pinot Noir, there have been many mutations. Pinot Gris is an ancient mutation of Noir and in the 19th century the lighter-berried Gris gave birth to a whiter version. 

Pinot Blanc, hence, was born.

And I should emphasize, mutations are not bad things. Not really. It is simply a spontaneous and unforeseen change to the vine's genetic material, occurring during cell division. And when we look at the world of vitis vinifera (the European vine family making up more than 90% of the world's quality wine), there have been numerous mutations. How else to explain the wide range of varieties available today?

Not only Pinot Noir but also popular Spanish Grenache and French Carignan have been prone to mutations. 

BLANC, WEISBURGUNDER and BIANCO

Like Pinot Gris, Blanc find its familial home in Alsace. Though it may be a member of the Noble Pinot Noir clan, Blanc is sadly used and abused as the workhorse grape in northeastern France (often called Clevner) and less popular than Riesling or Silvaner. ('Pinot Blanc' in Alsace is not so much a varietal as a blend of Blanc and Auxerrois)

Thankfully the German-speaking nations give it more respect. 

As Weissburgunder, it is Germany's sixth most planted white variety, grown in Baden, the Pfalz, and along the banks of the Nahe as well as the Mosel and its tributaries. From the full and  generously rich to the delicate, the variety can take on many different guises. 

Across the border, in eastern Austria, Weissburgunder makes up about 6% of the country's total vineyards and can be made into a varietal with a floral-almond scent or botrytized Trockenbeerenauslese (i.e. late-late-late harvested grapes of super-sweet character), either stand alone or blended with Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. 

In Northern Italy, the grape is well-received as Pinot Bianco in Alto Adige. Though less popular than Pinot Grigio, the variety shows potential when harvested from low-yielding vineyards and oak-aged.

NEW WORLD PINOT BLANC

Chardonnay is king (or queen) of the hill in the world of white grapes (ironically enough, Pinot Blanc was often mistaken for Chardonnay in French vineyards) and many New World winemakers put their  big money behind him (or her). 

But you'll find respectable if not incredible Pinot Blanc in the Pacific Northwest. It is grown in California, Oregon and British Columbia. Chalone Vineyards in the Salinas Valley produces oak-aged Pinot Blanc, left on the lees (taking cues from the Northern Italians) while Willakenzie Estate of the Willamette Valley opts for the older-neutral-barrel-stainless-steel approach, making a Pinot Blanc closer to Viognier with its honeydew-apricot character. 

The same could be said of Peller Estates Okanagan Pinot Blanc. 

ONTARIO PINOT BLANC

In my Dionysian travels, I rarely see Pinot Blanc here in the Niagara region. But two wineries do spring to mind: Konzelmann in the Lakeshore Sub-Appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake and Henry of Pelham on the Short Hills Bench in West St.Catharines.

Konzelmann Pinot Blanc is typically off-dry (a one on the sweetness code). It is a must for summer decks, docks and other places of sunlit distraction. There is a pear-apple-citrus tango going on in the glass but still, a hint of white flower. 

Henry of Pelham 2010 Pinot Blanc is another strong offering. I love how it says on the back label "restrained peach" in the description. Nope, I shake my head because the Peach here feels like a focused sucker-punch to the palate. The wine is truly lively and lovely and according to my father, "deadly" because it goes down far too easy. 

Ontario wines like these can make it easy for the trendy wine consumer to forget his (typically her) Pinot Grigio.

And on a damp, moody day, something bright and peach-like can make looking out on rain-drizzled street all the more balanced and pleasurable. 

Read more...

Firriato's Etna Rosso - An Esoteric Sicilian Red

The beaten path is boring. For every new California Chardonnay or Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon there is an audible yawn amidst true wine lovers. Though we are often deplored as geeks or wine bloggers, like film critics who have seen the same romantic comedy formula tried out again and again, we tire of the same wines.

Certain wines are like moods and there's a time and place for beginners to get their share of the famous, 'noble' varieties. 

But as palates become more intelligent, it's time to indulge in the 'market of the multitudes' as Chris Anderson in his bestselling book, The Long Tail explains. Though we all begin somewhere the same, we eventually diversify and become acquainted with unique offerings that expand our awareness and knowledge. 

This is why I love Southern Italian wines - they are somewhere off the radar but remain in range and deliver not only the intensity of stand-by varietals and blends but also tweak one's curiosity. 

SICILIAN WINE

The famous German poet, playwright, naturalist, novelist and statesman Johann Wolfgang von Goethe once wrote in his Italian Journey that without “seeing Sicily one cannot get a clear idea of what Italy is.” 

Goethe had escaped to Italy to discover himself, to learn about art, to fall in love and surround himself with an Ancient Culture. He wanted to get beyond the stuffy confines of Weimar and the customs of his Germanic homeland.

For many wine consumers looking for a way to break out from the heaps of everyday Cabs and Aussie Shiraz, Nero d'Avola (also known as Calabrese) has become the first  and most famous go-to Sicilian wine, a fun popular choice for those leaving the beaten path.

In terms of white varieties, you can look to traditional Catarratto and Inzolia as well as Grecanico  to please your curious summer palate. 

But for those questing out something special, I recommend wines from....

ETNA ROSSO

In the nineteenth century, the Etna wine district - Northeast, just south of Messina - became popular overnight. As phylloxera made its way through the vineyards of France, the Etna region with the help of the modern railway made it possible for grapes to be carried to wineries.

In the twentieth century, output fell, the volcano erupted (several times) and vineyards slowly became abandoned.

But as with many things overlooked, there is a return to greatness. 

Today, with modern research and the passion and enthusiasm of today's wine makers, the region is enjoying a small, but quiet renaissance. 

The soil is obviously volcanic, well-drained and temperatures shift back and forth between hot days and cool nights. Vines are old, sometimes 80 plus years. 

FIRRIATO'S ETNA ROSSO

Salvatore Di Gaetano and his wife Vinzia Novara are the dynamic couple behind Firriato's's success. Begun in the 1980's, the winery has since acquired several estates throughout Sicily, notably vineyard land south of Trapani  (in the west) and on the north eastern slope of Mount Etna in the region of Castiglione di Sicilia. 

In the latter area, one can find the Cavanera vineyards, 11 hectares planted to Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappucio and Carricante. The soils here are rich with minerals making their 2008 Etna Rosso, a blend of 80% Nerello Mescalese and 20% Nerello Cappucio a charismatic choice for savvy wine consumers. 

I was immediately struck by the licorice aroma of this wine. But I must emphasize, not a typical black licorice but more the Dutch, salted drop kind, the one I had in childhood. There's also a welcome hint of chocolate but also charred stone and candied raspberries.

My first sip, a fine balance of sinewy acidity and chewy tannins. This wine is absolutely refreshing and delicious (the raspberries carry through with the salted licorice). 

An easy, esoteric wine to recommend and available through your LCBO Vintages sections.

Read more...

Greener Days for Grüner Veltliner

Here in Niagara, we are finally beginning to experience the greener, warmer weather. The evenings are longer, the dusky shadows lengthen in front of us on the sidewalks and the verdant trees scent the sky.

Soon we'll be opening wine magazines telling us of the latest trends, what wine to drink during the warmer weather. Soon, more and more wine lovers will be heading to the LCBO coolers to seek out refreshing whites instead of brooding reds (wines that made the harsh winter tolerable, reminding us of the hotter days to come). 

I figure this is the time to offer my recommendation. 

AUSTRIA'S GRAPE: GRÜNER VELTLINER

In our Anglo-American culture, certain wines can be difficult to pronounce, especially those from Eastern Europe. The grape varieties of Greece raise eye-brows while German crossings, Scheurebe and Huxelrebe leave wine lovers bewildered as to where to put the accent. 

Grüner Veltliner, like Gewürztraminer, is fortunate enough to garner enough attention that wine buyers can put up with mispronunciation for the sake of a dry, refreshing white of white pepper and stone fruit character. (GROON-er FELT-leaner for those that want to make the attempt. I should emphasize, the 'r' in German has a slight guttural sound so instead of grrrewner, say GRWHOOnair...)

Of all of Austria's varieties, it is the most popular worldwide, planted on more than a third of the country's 48, 500 ha/119, 800 acres. In Lower Austria, it represent more than half of total white grape production and in Vienna, a third of all plantings. It can be used to make sparkling Austrian sekt, simple whites served at wine inns (Heurigen) as well as medium-bodied and opulent, concentrated wines.

Historically, its origins remain obscured, first documented in 1766 as Grüner Muskateller in the then Hapsburg Empire. We find 'Grüner Veltliner' first mentioned in 1855; by the 1930's it became more common. Near the end of the twentieth century, the grape emerged as the premier variety of Austria.

NOT JUST ANOTHER RIESLING

Unlike Germany's flagship variety, Grüner Veltliner is typically dry and made in a range of styles depending on where it is grown. 

In Lower Austria, the best of Austria's four regions (Weinbauregionen) for Grüner, one can find a wide range of offerings in the many subregions (Weinbaugebeite).

Wachau Grüner can age better than Riesling while retaining a complexity similar to white Burgundy. In the loam and loess soils of Kamptal and Kremstal, the wines offer notes reminiscent of Riesling. Here, the vineyards are steep and terraced for maximum exposure to the sun. The autumns are long and the grapes ripen allowing for the highest concentration of flavour compounds in the skin. 

In Weinviertel, the wines are cheaper but with often light, fresh, fruity and spicy notes. 

LETH GRÜNER VELTLINER 2009
This is a rather lush wine for a mild, spring evening. In the bouquet, the wine exudes peaches and apricot with a whiff of vanilla-mineral floating over the stone fruits. On the palate, you will find a comparable character as the wine follows through from the aromas to the flavours.

This is a versatile wine but I wouldn't recommend heavy meat dishes. Cod, sole, and salmon would work with a light cream sauce or a lemon pepper chicken. Either way, it's a nice way to ease into the greener season. 

Read more...

Henry of Pelham... I can't help it....

I have often thought about who I would consider my favourite winery to be in Niagara. I've visited and bought so many wines from so many establishments. It is so much to find such excellent wine just a hop, skip and a jump away from my own front door.

And there are so many great wines. Robyn's Block Chardonnay from Tawse is heart-throbbing delicious. Hillebrand's Trius Sauvignon Blanc is room shaking. Flatrock is fantastic for Riesling and Pinot; Konzelmann's reds are fantastic; Chateau des Charmes makes some of my absolute favourite Cabernet Franc, both estate and St. David's Bench. 

But if I have to choose... if I have to choose... well... I pick Henry of Pelham overall.

WHY HENRY OF PELHAM?

There are many reasons to love a winery.

First things first, I've always had a great time visiting Henry of Pelham. My first time, it was a wet, misty July 2009 afternoon. The world had disappeared behind a veil of rain. The windshield wipers wiped away the lightly pattering drops and I felt for a moment I didn't know where I was going.

And there, at the end of foggy end of 5th Street, right on Pelham Road, I found the quaint, rustic buildings of the boutique and restaurant.

That damp day, I talked with Zack and tried many wines. I was looking for work and mentioned my love of wine and my previous experience working for wine stores in British Columbia. He let me try most of the wines and I was dizzy with goodness (don't worry, I did my share of spitting).

Since that initial visit, I've been back numerous times and on every occasion felt at home and sufficiently welcome.

WELL, WHAT CAN I SAY, I LOVE THE WINE

The Speck Brothers, Paul, Matthew and Daniel just happen to make excellent wine. Last year I bought some Chardonnay and Riesling. In a previous blog, I drunkenly paired their Gamay with strawberries.

This year I recently sampled their 2008 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($19.95) and their 2008 Chardonnay Reserve ($14.95). If you're looking for buttery-toffee-apple goodness with a creamy and mineral feel, I'd suggested the former. If you're an unoaked lover of Chard, the latter which has a great pear-pineapple citrus zest, is your best bet. 

As for Riesling, you can't beat them.

Nope.

Yeah... I know, I know, Tawse, Cave's Spring and Thirty Bench make incredible Riesling. But I wear my heart on my sleeve for Henry of Pelham's approach to the great, Germanic variety.

At the top of the list, the Speck Family Reserve 2007 Riesling ($30.00) which turns my knees into dissolute puddles. The best of the best and only made from reduced yields and older vines. This is what Riesling should be year and year out. But that's a dream. And I can settle on this dream when it comes (and this dream can age for a long time).

If you're looking for something for the here and now, for Rieslings that you can open tonight for dinner, I'd suggest the 2008 Off-Dry Riesling Reserve to pair with spicy Thai dishes or the 2008 Riesling ($12.95) with schnitzel. Then there's the apple-delicious 2008 Riesling Reserve for those that prefer a dry style.

I can also recommend the 2009 Pinot Blanc which is very good for a grape variety I often refer to as Pinot 'Bland'.

NOT JUST WHITES BUT AWESOME REDS

If you're reading this and there's still time, rush out to Henry of Pelham and buy their 2007 Baco Noir Reserve ($24.95). It is phenomenal. The website describes it as jammy and I happen to agree. This wine reminds me of strawberry filling coated in butter and raspberries. Simply gorgeous and only a few left. 

If you like just regular Baco, their 2008 Baco Noir ($13.95) is the best in terms of delivery. Pelee Island makes a good value Baco but Henry of Pelham's is continually good. Dark fruit compote, mulberry and black berry. 

If you're looking for an outstanding, if not decimate-your-mind Pinot, try their 2007 Speck Family Reserve ($40.00) which will plummet you into cerebral bliss. Heavily praised, this Pinot Noir is rich and nuanced with multiple layers of menthol, dark fruit and holistic herbs. Like the Speck Family Reserve Riesling, it is hard to stand while drinking this one.

But if forty bucks is out of your price range and you're looking to impress your winter guests, I recommend the 2007 Cabernet Merlot Reserve ($24.95). This is a solid, if not exceptional Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Incredible, delicious, if you love French wine, Bistro-style wine, this is the bottle to grab. Black fruit, cassis, chocolate, and herbal, this has a hint of pencil shavings and just enough tannin to make this go-to for beef and barbeque cuisine.

(I confess, as I'm writing this blog, the 2007 Cabernet Merlot Reserve has been my attendant muse. An word-inspiring wine...)

FOR ANYTIME OF THE DAY, WEEK, MONTH or YEAR

I just really can't help it. From the visits to the wine lineup, Henry of Pelham has yet to disappoint me. Great prices, great selection. It is worth every single, frigging penny. 

Also, check out their Lifestyle wine selection, Sibling Rivalry.

Yes, I don't regret it. Henry of Pelham is my choice for the best winery. Period.

Read more...

The Wines of Switzerland (Part I): Dôle du Valais

The wines of France, Italy, Germany and Austria are all considerably unique and distinct. From Bordeaux to Burgundy, the full-bodied blends of the west are in direct contrast to the single variety wines of Beaune.

In Italy, each region has is its own character with Piedmont being very different from Puglia. Germany has Riesling for its star while Austria is fast becoming associated with stellar Grüner Veltliner.

In the midst (literally and figuratively) of all these fabulous wine countries is one typically over-looked and rarely appreciated by the wine drinkers of the world: Switzerland.

SWITZERLAND...ASIDE FROM THE CHOCOLATE, WATCHES AND KNIVES

Switzerland has a wine history similar to other European countries.

Archeological evidence has unearthed grape seeds dating from the Neolithic age (between 3000 and 1800 B.C.) in such regions as St-Blaise and Neutchatel. The Romans too left their mark as did the Cistercian Monks in the Middle Ages, planting the original vineyards of Dézaley in Vaud. In the Medieval Era, the wines were thin and bulked up with the addition of honey.

During the mid-19th century, Swiss vineyards suffered under the scourge of phylloxera, powdery and downy mildew. While wine regions in France, Spain, Italy, Germany and Austria quickly recovered, the Swiss wine industry suffered and lost substantial ground. By 1957, the total vineyard land of the country had been reduced to 12,500 ha, (the original figure: 33,000 ha in the 1800s).

Looking past the history, the country is notably mountainous with the majority of vineyard land found in valleys and running along lake shores in cantons (i.e. provinces) bordering France, Italy, German and Austria. The föhn, a local wind also contributes to the ripening process of the wine grapes, warming up various portions of the south. 

The slopes here can also be steep and like in Germany, vineyards are hand harvested.

SWISS RED VINE VARIETIES AND VALAIS

For a cooler wine country, between 45 and 47 degrees north latitude, you can't expect the red wines to be anything like the fruit bombs of California, Australia or Southern Spain. Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder in Germany) is the most widely planted red variety, especially in German Switzerland. 

Gamay, the grape best known for making Beaujolais is also a staple. 

In the region of Valais, the two grapes are blended to make Dôle with the Pinot Noir dominating the Gamay. 

The south western canton produces 40 percent of the wines in the country and has become known as the 'California of Switzerland'. The vineyards here are terraced with some 22,000 smallholders growing the grapes.

PROVINS 2007 DÔLE DU VALAIS

Provins began as a co-operative in Switzerland in the early twentieth century. Following World War II it evolved into an award-winning firm under the direction of Joseph Michaud with an extensive portfolio of quality reds and whites. The wines range from Syrah to Chardonnay with Dôle playing a part in their product lineup. 

In France, Pinot Noir is the grape of the Côte du Nuits. Gamay, as I mentioned, is the variety behind behind Beaujolais.

In Switzerland, when the two are blended, the offering is unique. If you're looking for something different (which I'm always looking for, I'm getting tired of the Parkerized-wines of the world), then I can safely recommend Provins 2007 Dôle du Valais.

First off, expect a floral, red-cherry bouquet with earthy waves of mulch and yes, manure. On the palate, the wine is vibrant, spicy with flirtacious cherry acidity and tasty freshly-picked strawberry notes. 

The wine is available in your LCBO Vintages section for $18.95. A wine worth discovering.

Bibliography

Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2006.

Read more...

Anselmann's Huxelrebe: Something Different for a Dessert Wine

Canadian Thanksgiving is this weekend and of course wine writers, sommeliers and critics are whipping out their editorials, recommending this or that wine to pair with your turkey, your mashed potatoes, yams and cranberry sauce.

Lately, I've begun to notice the number of wine writers who are pushing late harvest wines.

Typically, these Ontario late harvest wines are anywhere between $15 and $25.00 for a 375ml. And it's great to support the local economy (I bought several Ontario wines this afternoon) but it's also nice to find some good value wines. 

HUXELREBE

Lovers of German off-dry and sweet wines can look further than Riesling in their Vintages section. Huxelrebe is a crossing of Chasselas (known as Gutedel in Germany) and Courtillier Musqué. 

For those exploring the world of wine, a crossing occurs when one variety of grape is fertilized with another variety from the same species (in this instance two vines of the vitis vinifera family). Many modern grape varieties are a result of spontaneous crossings in nature such as Cabernet Sauvignon which is a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. 

In Germany, there are numerous crossings, many of them man-made such as Kerner (Riesling X Trollinger), Morio-Muskat (Silvaner X Weissburgunder aka Pinot Blanc) and the widely planted Müller-Thurgau (Riesling X Madeleine Royale, a table grape). 

Huxelrebe was bred in 1927 by Dr. George Scheu in the Rheinhessen region of Germany. Dr. Scheu, a prolific vine bred and the first director of the viticultural institute in Alzey, gives his name to another crossing, Scheurebe (Silvaner X Riesling) while Huxelrebe is named for nurseryman Fritz Huxel. (And I shouldn't fail to mention, 'rebe' is German for vine or vine shoot.)

THE PFALZ AND WEINGUT ANSELMANN

Huxelrebe is grown almost exclusively in the Rheinehessen and Pfalz regions (Bereichs auf Deutsche...) of Germany.

The Pfalz (or Palatinate) is where you can find the Weingut (winery) Anselmann along the Southern Wine Route in the peaceful village of Edesheim. Here, the Haardt mountain range, a continuation of the Vosges Mountains of Alsace form a backdrop to the sleepy but verdant landscape. Even  though the Pfalz is technically part of Germany's Rhineland, the river is several miles east; no significant vineyards (Weinberge) border it.

The Pfalz is more southern than the other regions of Germany. Ripeness is rarely, if ever, a problem. Grapes along with figs, apricots, peaches, kiwis and almonds are grown throughout the area. 

The Anselmann family have been making wine for over 400 years and like the numerous wineries along the Deutsche Weinstrasse (German Wine Route), grow a wide variety of grapes (including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot which can be difficult to grow further north).

The Anselmann 2007 Huxelrebe Auslese (AUS-lay-zuh) has won both silver medals at the Vin Agora in Hungary (2009) and Vinovita (2008). At $14.95 in a 750ml bottle it can easily compete and be compared to some of our local late harvest Riesling. But instead of petrol and apple, look for pineapple, passion fruit, honey and banana on the palate. This wine is full-bodied and could easily pair with cheese cake, pumpkin pie and many other Thanksgiving treats. 




Bibliography
MacNeil, Karen, The Wine Bible. Workman Publishing Company Inc. New York, 2001 

Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2006.

http://www.weingut-anselmann.de/home.html 

Read more...

Vranec, Bovin and the Wines of Macedonia

While giving a public tour at the winery I work at, I met three Macedonians. They were friendly and asked me  if I knew anything about Macedonian wine. I said I had little if no knowledge of Macedonian wine, admitting  to some familiarity with the history of Alexander the Great and Aristotle.

"Of course," the young woman said.


Thinking for a moment, hoping not to appear too uncultured I said, "I know the language is similar to Greek.... Actually, my step-brother married a Macedonian."


The male in the group rolled his eyes and said sarcastically, "My condolences..."

"Well... he's divorced."

To which he replied, "I'm not surprised." 

Strangely, the two ladies in his company then gave him a solemn, as if knowing glance, seemingly acknowledging some hidden truth in his sardonic response.

MACEDONIA: THEN AND NOW

Aside from male and female relations in Macedonia, let's take a peek at the history.

For those who sat through Alexander by famed filmmaker, Oliver Stone, or listened to lectures in Ancient History class in high school, you may remember Macedonia as once being the head of a vast empire. Philip II, Alexander's father took control of the Greek city states in the mid 4th century B.C. After his death, his son Alexander extended the kingdom's borders. Taking his armies eastward, Alexander gained control of Persia, Egypt and lands bordering India. Unfortunately, he died at the age of 32  in  323 B.C. but his legacy continued to influence such military leaders as Ceasar, Marcus Aurelius and Bismarck.

By 167 BC, Macedonia's political power had substantially waned and like many Greek cities, fell under the sway of the growing Roman Empire. It is said that the members of the Macedonian royal family were heavy wine drinkers (perhaps as a result of their fall from world power. That... or something to do with male-female relations... which might explain why my step-brother loves - needs? - to drink).

Today, there is the Republic of Macedonia, a landlocked country bordered by Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece and Albania and the region of Macedonia in the country of Greece (where the original royal cities of Alexander's fame lie).

MACEDONIA IN TERMS OF WINE

The Republic of Macedonia is hot (a climate ranging from Mediterranean to Continental), mountainous and prone to earthquakes. Overall, the conditions are very favourable for growing both table and wine grapes.

Presently there is an estimated 55,330 acres/22,400 ha of land devoted to growing such popular international varieties as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Laski Rizling (AKA Welschriesling), with some Chardonnay and  Sauvignon Blanc as well as the indigenous grapes of Vranac, Kratosija and Zilavka. 

VRANEC AND BOVIN

There are three main wine-growing regions. The most important is the Povardarie (or Povardarje) region around Skopje (Скопје) followed by Pcinja-Osogova region on the Bulgarian border and Pelagonija-Polog surrounding Lake Ohrid on the Albanian border. 

One can find the Bovin winery in the Tikvesh District of the Povardarie Region in the town of Negotino (Неготино). 

Established in 1998, Bovin is regarded as the first privately owned winery in Macedonia. Presently they own 60 hectares of land in Tikvesh. The winery uses environmentally friendly practices in their vineyard along with the most modern of production equipment for fermentation and maturation.


Along with the many international varieties, Bovin grows the Vranec grape, easily the most popular and important in the country. Indigenous to both Montenegro and Macedonia, Vranec produces a rich wine with intense red and black berry fruit. For those who love their Primitivo from Puglia or their California Zinfandel, DNA profiling has recently revealed that Vranec may be related to the Italian variety from across the Adriatic.

The 2007 Vranec from Bovin is incredibly rich with lush blackberry fruit and a hint of earthy licorice. If you've grown tired of Malbec, this is a nice change. A wonderful value and available at the LCBO for $13.95.


Bibliography
Robinson, Jancis (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 2006.

Johnson, Hugh and Jancis Robinson, World Atlas of Wine. Mitchell Beazley, London, 2001.

Links
www.bovin.com.mk/index.asp

Read more...